Dropping down into Cairns from the Atherton tableland is an extraordinary drive, initially through verdant farmland, followed by dense rain forest and then 20kms of the longest, steepest most winding road I have ever driven on. Finally arriving in the outer suburbs of Cairns which was a bit of a shock, as far as I recall from my only other visit about 15 years ago Cairns seemed like a town whereas now it very definitely a city, for better or worse.

Anyway, once in Cairns my first port of call was to catch up with an old school mate Richard Taylor, or Tails as he was back in the day. Richard and his wife Kelly kindly invited me for lunch, which consisted of an endless supply of freshly caught kind prawns, which I single handedly tried to put on the endangered species list! Not surprising given that Richard has been a long time prawn trawlerman out of Cairns!

Even though Tails and I weren’t especially close at school we shared a lot of stories, and compared notes on what we’d done since leaving school. Suffice to say Richard has had a diverse and interesting career and has now handed the helm of their trawler to his son while he lobbies on behalf of the North Queensland Fishermen’s Association to try and stop the bureaucrats closing down commercial fishing on the great barrier reef. It was interesting to hear Richard’s thoughts on how to best protect the barrier reef ecosystem based on his thirty years experience of living and working in that environment. He is all for responsible management, which after all is the fisherman’s livelihood, but frustrated by public servants in Canberra and scientists in their labs telling him and his colleagues how to run, or more to the point, how not to run their businesses. It was also interesting to hear his comments on coral bleaching which we hear is an indicator of impending climate catastrophe, when he thinks it’s a naturally occurring phenomenon which has been going on for years and the coral quickly recovers which, if true, doesn’t get the publicity it deserves. I don’t know if this is right but I do know Richard has spent years at sea and has a strong interest in sustainability as he’d like to see his son and grandson continue in the industry he loves. I hope to see Richard again when I pass back through Cairns on my way south after Cape York and hopefully meet his son and go out on their trawler.

Following my meeting with Richard I cold called someone from the distant past who I really only knew as the ex-girlfriend of one of my best mates from school, and who also happens to be besties with Jo from Cunnamulla. It was Jo who suggested I call her and gave me her number.

My fifty year old recollection of this girl / lady was that she had sparkling blue eyes and a great sense of humour and a fantastic name, Pixi Hancock! However, when I called the number Jo had given me the voicemail was answered by someone called Liz Taylor. Somewhat confused I texted Jo and asked if she’s maybe given me the wrong number, but to my surprise she texted back saying Liz was actually Pixi’s real name and Taylor was her married name, and that she would call me back soon. Sure enough Liz Pixi called me soon after and we agreed I’d call her Pixi for old time sake and she very kindly invited me to her place for dinner that night.

It was amazing how two people who didn’t know each other very well in the first place, and hadn’t seen each other for fifty years could have instant rapport and find so much to talk about, and more importantly laugh about! After a great meal and more than a few drinks Liz kindly offered me a bed and shower in her backyard studio, in case I needed some respite from van life – I suspect this may have been a more polite way of saying “you smell shit and look like you need a good night’s sleep”! Regardless, I thought about it for 3 seconds and gratefully accepted.

The next morning Pix, Banjo (the foxy) and I went for a walk along the beach at Yorkeys Knob, a very FNQ name if ever I’ve heard one.

Jo had filled Pixi in on my travel plans and she mentioned her next door neighbour, Lawrence, was a professional Cape York tour guide, had just returned from a trip north and would be happy to give me a few travel tips. This was beyond serendipitous as this leg of my tour was probably the most difficult and extreme. I’d heard all sorts of stories about how rough the road was and that it was only for experienced off-road drivers and serious off-road vehicles, neither of which Max or I were! We subsequently met with Lawrence and over a few beers he gave me some great advice and suggestions on places to go and people to meet. He also reassured me that if I took it slowly and took notice of the warning signs (i.e sand holes, dips, side track, etc) Max and I should be fine, which was a big relief.

In celebration of this good news Pix and I adjourned to the nearby Narrow Tracks gin distillery and cocktail bar which located in huge old corrugated iron shed that use to be a timber yard. Not only were the cocktails fantastic but the “vibe” was great and we followed up with a delicious Thai meal at a local restaurant that cost ~$40 for the two of us, definitely not major city pricing!

Feeling a bit dusty from the night before the next day stated the same with Pixi’s friend Basia and her dogs joined us for Banjo’s constitutional at Yorkeys Knob. I was surprised when Pixi said she needed to go into the city for a meeting as I’d been under the impression it was Saturday, only to realise it was actually Friday! This turned out to be a bonus as it meant I had an extra day to enjoy Cairns and more importantly reprise our visit to Narrow Track that evening, followed by a fantastic home coked local prawn and pasta dinner and endless banter, including Pixi giving me a couple of contacts to look up at Bamaga and Cooktown on the next leg

All in all it turned out to be an unexpected delight to reconnect with Pixi and I look forward to seeing her again on my return.

Tomorrow’s the big one, north to the Cape!