Location:

Smoky Cape Lighthouse stands on a prominent headland within Hat Head National Park, approximately 5 kilometers southeast of South West Rocks, New South Wales. The lighthouse is positioned 128 meters above sea level, making it one of the most elevated lighthouses in Australia. The cape forms part of a dramatic coastal landscape where the headland projects into the Pacific Ocean, providing exceptional visibility along this section of the NSW coast.

Summary:

GPS: Lat: 30° 55′ S Long: 153° 05′ E

First Lit: 15th April, 1891 (Automated 1988; Demanned 1995)

Tower height: 17.4 meters

Focal Height: 128 meters above sea level

Original Lens: First Order Chance Brothers dioptric lens

Intensity: 1,000,000 candela

Range: 26 nautical miles

Characteristic: Three white flashes every 20 seconds [Fl.(3)W 20s]

History:

Indigenous:

The Smoky Cape area holds deep significance for the Dunghutti (also spelled Dhunghutti) people, who have maintained continuous connection to this country for tens of thousands of years. The headland served as an important ceremonial and meeting place, with its elevated position offering advantages for both coastal surveillance and communication.

The Indigenous connection to Smoky Cape extends beyond its role as a lookout point. The headland and surrounding areas were rich in both marine and terrestrial food sources. The rocky platforms below the cape were particularly important for gathering shellfish and fishing, while the adjacent forests provided a variety of plant foods, animals and materials for traditional tools and shelters.

Archeological evidence found in the area, including middens and tool-making sites, suggests long-term occupation and use of the headland. These sites contain remains of shellfish, bones and stone tools, providing insight into traditional lifestyles.

The name “Smoky Cape” itself speaks to Indigenous presence. When Captain James Cook sailed past in May 1770, he observed smoke from Aboriginal fires on the headland – a practice that was part of sophisticated land management techniques. These fires were used for multiple purposes, including signaling, ceremony, and land management through controlled burning practices.

Colonial

The early colonial period saw increasing maritime traffic along this stretch of coast, particularly as the cedar-getting industry expanded in the Macleay River region. The first documented European exploration of the immediate area was conducted by John Oxley in 1818, who noted the cape’s prominence as a navigational landmark.

The discovery of cedar in the Macleay River hinterland in the 1820s led to increased shipping activity. By the 1840s, regular coastal traders were operating between Sydney and the Macleay River settlements, making the waters around Smoky Cape increasingly busy but hazardous.

The need for a lighthouse became apparent in the 1860s as maritime traffic increased. Local settlers and ship captains petitioned the colonial government for a navigation aid, citing numerous near-misses and actual wrecks. However, it wasn’t until the 1880s that the project gained serious consideration, following several major shipping disasters.

The decision to build the lighthouse was part of Colonial Architect James Barnet’s systematic plan to illuminate the NSW coastline.

The Lighthouse:

Interestingly the Smoky Cape was not recommended at the 1873 Intercolonial Lighthouse Conference as it was felt that with the already approved 1st Order lights at Sugarloaf Point (1975) and South Solitary Island (1880), and the minor lights at Crowdy Head (and Tacking Point (1879) this section of coast was sufficiently well lit and there were priorities elsewhere in the colony. However, due to flourishing coastal trade and desire to improve maritime safety a delegation from the Shipmasters and Officers Association successfully lobbied the NSW government to establish 1st order lights at Smoky Cape and Norah Head in 1884.

In October 1886 members of the Marine Board visited Smoky Cape and selected the site and Colonial Architect James Barnet was summoned to design and have the light built. However, this was to be the last lighthouse he designed as he was dismissed over accusations of mismanagement and exceeding budgets on a number of public projects he was responsible for. This in turn led to the abolition of the office of Colonial Architect and responsibility for future lighthouses passed to Cecil Darley the Engineer-in-Chief for Harbours and Rivers. Many would say this marked the end of a lighthouse representing ‘architectural excellence’ and from here on most would simply be regarded as engineering projects with less and less regard to aesthetics.

Tenders were called on 2nd January, 1889 and the contract subsequently awarded Messers Oakes & Co with a budgeted cost of £18,000, a significant investment for the time. Construction began in 1889 but unfortunately Mr. Oakes died during the construction and the project was completed by his executors in 1891.

The Buildings:

In many ways this last Barnet lighthouse was his pièce de résistanceas as he created more than just a navigational aid – he crafted a masterpiece of Victorian architecture!

The 17.4-meter tower rises from an unusual octagonal base transitioning to a circular tower supported by flying buttresses that give it both strength and grace. The tower is divided into two storeys, with iron floors and staircases. The crown is a typical Barnet being granite voussoir blocks supported on moulded granite cantilevers. The balcony sports an ornate gun metal railing stamped with Queen Victoria’s mark. an internal cast iron staircase leading to the original Chance Brothers lantern room, which still crowns the structure today.

In addition to the lighthouse tower the complex includes the head keeper’s cottage, two assistant keepers’ cottages, workshop facilities, store rooms a coach house and stables.

All buildings are of a cement-rendered brick construction, painted white and in the Victorian architectural style of the period.

Technical Details:

The apparatus consisted of a first order lantern and lens system that is still in use today. The lantern revolved on rollers turned by a clockwork winding mechanism consisting of cables and weights. In 1912 the original Douglas burners, equipped with 6 concentric wicks, were replaced by Ford-Schmidt incandescent mantles fuelled by kerosene vapour.

In 1962 the apparatus was converted to mains electricity.  The roller pedestal was replaced with a thrust bearing model powered by an electric motor. With this the compliment of keepers were reduced from three to two.

There is a small aperture below the balcony that once held a a subsidiary red light to cover Fish Rock.

It is believed the light was automated in 1988 and has since been demanned.

Keepers of the Light:

The human story of Smoky Cape Lighthouse is best told through its keepers, who maintained this vital beacon for nearly a century until automation in 1988. The station required three keepers – a Head Keeper and two assistants – who, along with their families, formed a close-knit community on the headland.

William Norris served as the first Head Keeper, taking up his position when the light was first exhibited on April 29, 1891. His early logs detail the challenges of establishing routines at the new station, from maintaining the complex First Order Chance Brothers lens to managing supplies for the isolated community.

One of the most notable keepers was John James McMahon, who served during the early 1900s. McMahon was known for his meticulous weather observations and his efforts to establish a productive vegetable garden despite the challenging coastal conditions. His wife Sarah became well-known for her medical assistance to both the lighthouse community and nearby settlers, often treating injuries and illnesses when doctors couldn’t reach the isolated location.

The Andersen family’s tenure in the 1920s marked a particularly colorful period. Head Keeper Erik Andersen established new standards for maintenance of the optical apparatus, while his wife conducted a small school for the keepers’ children in one of the station’s rooms. Their daughter Marie later wrote vivid accounts of life at the lighthouse, describing the rhythm of days governed by the sun and sea, and nights punctuated by the steady flash of the light above.

Shipwrecks & Tragedies:

Despite the lighthouse’s presence, the waters around Smoky Cape have witnessed their share of maritime disasters. The SS Wandra came to grief on nearby rocks in 1892, barely a year after the lighthouse began operation. While the crew was saved, the incident highlighted the treacherous nature of this coastline even with the new light in place.

The loss of the coastal steamer Bonnie Dundee in 1906 marked one of the area’s worst disasters. The vessel struck rocks in heavy seas, with several crew members lost to the waves despite the desperate rescue attempts by the lighthouse keepers and local fishermen.

A particularly poignant tragedy occurred in 1943, when a small fishing vessel capsized within sight of the lighthouse. The keeper on duty watched helplessly as the drama unfolded too quickly for any assistance to be rendered. This incident led to the installation of improved rescue equipment at the station.

On 25th August, 1969 the coastal freighter MV Noongah foundered in heavy seas off Smoky Cape with the loss of all 21 crew members. This prompted one of the largest maritime searches to date involving the navy and airforce but only one body was recovered. The fate of the ship was a mystery until the wreck was discovered 55 years later lying in 170m of water directly off shore from the lighthouse.

Documented Shipwrecks and Maritime Incidents

Pre-Lighthouse Era (Before 1891):

• HMS Serpent (1852): Narrowly avoided disaster after mistaking its position in heavy weather;
• Mary Stuart (1857): Timber vessel wrecked on rocks below the cape, crew saved by local Indigenous people;
• Woolloomooloo (1864): timber ketch wrecked on rocks entering Trial Bay with loss of all hands;
• Culloden (1869): Struck rocks during southerly gale, total loss but crew survived;
• Northern Star (1878): Lost with all hands after striking reef in heavy seas, incident that helped prompt lighthouse construction.

Post-Lighthouse Era:

1. SS Wandra (1892) coastal steamer struck rocks in rough conditions, the crew rescued;
2. Buster (1893) Brig grounded and wrecked north of Trial Bay, crew abandoned ship and saved;
3. Bonnie Dundee (1906) Struck rocks during severe storm, 5 crew members lost;
4. SS Maroubra (1913) Ran aground during thick fog, No lives lost but vessel severely damaged;
5. Astoria (1928) fishing vessel wrecked on northern rocks, 3 crew members lost;
6. Helen B (1943) fishing vessel capsized within sight of lighthouse, 2 fishermen lost;
7. MV Noongah (1969) foundered off Smoky Cape in heavy seas with loss of 21 lives;
8. Koondooloo (1972) one of three Sydney ferries wrecked in Trial Bay while under tow.

Each of these incidents contributed to the maritime history of Smoky Cape and underscored the importance of maintaining an effective navigation aid at this location. The lighthouse has played a crucial role in preventing countless other potential disasters, though exact numbers are difficult to determine as near-misses were not always officially recorded.

Myths & Mysteries:

Like many lighthouses, Smoky Cape has accumulated its share of mysteries and legends over the decades. Keepers’ logbooks contain several accounts of unexplained lights seen at sea during clear weather, with no corresponding vessel movements recorded. During World War II, multiple keepers reported strange occurrences, including unexplained radio signals and lights in the darkness, leading to speculation about possible enemy submarine activity.

Former keeper families have spoken of inexplicable footsteps heard in the tower at night, and lights appearing in vacant cottages. One persistent tale involves the figure of a woman in period dress seen walking the station grounds at dusk – some associate this with Sarah McMahon, the keeper’s wife known for her care of the sick, while others believe it may be connected to an unrecorded tragedy from the station’s early years.

Current Status:

Today’s lighthouse stands as both an active aid to navigation and a treasured historic site. Managed by the Australian Maritime Safety Authority and protected under the NSW Heritage Act, it continues its vital role while offering visitors a glimpse into an important chapter of Australia’s maritime history. The keeper’s cottages, now available for overnight stays, allow guests to experience something of the isolation and beauty that characterized life at this remote station, while the surrounding National Park preserves the natural landscape that has witnessed over 130 years of lighthouse history.

As a result of the Commonwealth Lighthouses Act of 1911 this light was transferred in 1915 to Federal control because of it status as a coastal light.