Introduction:

There are effectively two Clarence River Lights, the OLD which was first lit in 1880 and the NEW which was first commissioned in 1955, at which time the Old Lightstation was demolished. In 1987 a group of local residents took it upon themselves to rebuild the old Clarence River lighthouse to it former glory, a project that took 25 years to complete in 2012. Out of respect to their efforts and in recognition of the historic importance of the original lighthouse I am including both old and new Clarence River Lighthouses in this report.

Location:

Both lighthouses are situated on Pilot Hill overlooking Yamba and the entrance to the Clarence River. The modern lighthouse serves as the primary navigation aid for vessels entering the Clarence River, complementing the historical lighthouse on Pilot Hill. The location was chosen to provide direct guidance for vessels negotiating the river entrance and its notorious bar.

Summary:

GPS: Old: Lat: 29° 26′ S : Long: 153° 22′ E & New: Lat: 29° 25′ S : Long: 153° 21′ E

First Lit: Old: 1880 & New: 1955

Tower height: Old: 7 m & New: 17

Focal Height: 59m & 41m above sea level respectivly

Original Lens: 4th Order Chance Brothers dioptric lens

Range: White 17 nml

Characteristic: Group flashing white light, showing two flashes every 10 seconds (Fl(3)W. 15s)

History:

Indigenous:

The Yamba area is the traditional land of the Yaegl people, part of the broader Bundjalung nation. The headland where the lighthouse stands was an important ceremonial and meeting place. The Yaegl people used the elevated position of Pilot Hill as a lookout point and for signaling to neighboring clans. The area was rich in seafood resources, and Indigenous people maintained a strong connection to the river and coastal environment.

Colonial:

On the 12th July, 1799 Matthew Flinders was the first recorded European to land at what is now the township of Yamba while on his historic circumnavigation of Australia. However it wasn’t until 1830 that the river was discovered by escaped convict Richard Craig, and it took another eight years before the surrounding area was fully explored by Captain Henry Rous who navigated arrived the river and named it after the Duke of Clarence (who later became King William IV). Initially, the region was known for its timber industry, with valuable red cedar abundant along the riverbanks.

The river played a crucial role in the development of the region during the 19th century as it became a major transport route for timber, agricultural products, livestock and passengers. The river trade led to the establishment of townships and river ports at Grafton (1851), Ulmarra (1857) and Maclean (1862). Steamships regularly plied the river, connecting settlements and transporting goods and passengers along the river and via coast to other parts of the colony.

The sugar industry became significant in the 1860s, with numerous sugar mills established along the river. The region also developed strong dairy and fishing industries. The construction of the North Coast Railway in the early 20th century reduced river transport, but the Clarence remained important for fishing and agriculture.

After years of lobbying by local industry the government undertook the construction of the lighthouse and breakwater at Yamba which significantly improved safety of crossing the notorious Clarence bar.

The Lighthouses:

The original Clarence River Light was designed by James Barnet, the Colonial Architect of New South Wales, and was constructed in 1880. The lighthouse was part of Barnet’s systematic approach to coastal navigation, ensuring safe passage for the growing maritime traffic along the NSW coast.

The New Clarence River Light was designed and built in the 1950s as part of the modernization of Australia’s maritime infrastructure. Its construction represents the transition from traditional lighthouse architecture to modern, functional design focused on efficiency and low maintenance requirements.

The Structures:

The Old Clarence River lighthouse is constructed of timber frame with corrugated iron cladding, painted white. This design was unusual for NSW lighthouses of the period, which were typically built of stone or brick. The tower is octagonal in shape, with a gallery and lantern room at the top. The use of timber and iron reflected both cost considerations and the relative ease of transporting these materials to the site.

The new lighthouse is constructed of reinforced concrete with a cylindrical tower design. Unlike its historic counterpart, the structure is purely functional, without decorative elements. The tower incorporates an integral equipment room at its base and is topped by a modern lantern room. The structure is designed to withstand extreme weather conditions and the marine environment.

Technical Details:

The original optical apparatus installed was a 4th Order Chance Brothers dioptric lens, powered by kerosene. The light was electrified in 1939, making it one of the earlier lighthouses in NSW to convert to electric power. The original lens remains in operation, though the light source has been modernized.

The new lighthouse was equipped from the start with electric lighting, using sealed beam lamps in a modern optical array. This technology represented a significant advance over traditional lens systems. The light system has been upgraded several times since installation to incorporate newer technology, including LED lighting in recent years.

Keepers of the Light:

The lighthouse was operated by a head keeper and an assistant keeper until its automation. Notable keepers included:

1. Francis Freeburn (1880-1886) – First keeper
2. John Burgess (1886-1902)

The lighthouse was automated in 1920, relatively early compared to other NSW lighthouses, though a caretaker continued to live on site until the 1970s.

As a modern structure, this lighthouse was designed for automatic operation from the beginning and never had resident keepers. Maintenance is carried out by visiting technicians from the Australian Maritime Safety Authority.

Shipwrecks & Tragedies:

The Clarence River entrance was notorious for its dangerous bar, which claimed numerous vessels. Notable incidents include:

• Helen McGregor (1857) – Lost on the bar with significant loss of life
• Agnes Irving (1873) – Ran aground on the northern breakwater during rough conditions
• Shanghai (1879) – Lost on the southern breakwater
• Examiner (1880) – Struck the southern breakwater in heavy seas
• Agnes (1883) – Wrecked attempting to cross in heavy seas
• Alice (1889) – Capsized while crossing the bar, several crew members were lost

Modern navigation aids and improved river entrance works have significantly reduced shipping incidents, though the bar remains challenging in adverse conditions.

Since the installation of the new light, there have been relatively few major incidents at the river entrance, though the bar continues to present challenges in adverse conditions. Most modern incidents involve recreational vessels rather than commercial shipping.

Myths & Mysteries:

Local folklore includes stories of mysterious lights seen from the direction of the old pilot station during storms. Some attribute these to the spirits of those lost in early shipwrecks. The lighthouse’s position on Pilot Hill has also led to tales of unexplained phenomena, particularly during stormy weather.

Being a modern structure, this lighthouse has accumulated fewer mysteries than its historic counterpart. However, local fishermen sometimes report unusual light phenomena around the breakwater during storms, possibly due to phosphorescence or electrical effects.

Interesting Facts:

The Old Clarence River Lighthouse is one of the few surviving timber-framed lighthouses in Australia. Its unusual construction method makes it historically significant in the context of Australian maritime infrastructure. The lighthouse complex includes the original keeper’s quarters, which is now used as a museum.

The New Clarence River Lighthouse was one of the first in Australia designed specifically for automatic operation. Its position above the breakwater makes it particularly effective for guiding vessels across the river bar. The structure incorporates modern weather monitoring equipment and aids to navigation and it works in conjunction with the historic lighthouse to provide comprehensive navigation coverage.

Current Status:

The lighthouse remains an active aid to navigation, maintained by the Australian Maritime Safety Authority. The site is accessible to the public and is a popular tourist destination, offering spectacular views of the coastline and river entrance. The lighthouse precinct is managed by the NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service and includes interpretive displays about the maritime history of the region.