Location:

Cape Moreton Light, also listed as North Point Range Rear Light, is a heritage listed active lighthouse located on Cape Moreton, a rocky headland located at the north eastern tip of Moreton Island, a large sand island on the eastern side of Moreton Bay, off the coast of South East Queensland. It marks the northern entrance to Moreton Bay and Brisbane and also serves as the rear light for the North Point Range. With its two distinctive red bands, it also serves as a daymark.  lit in 1857 it is Queensland’s oldest lighthouse and dates back to a time before Queensland gained its independence from NSW.

Summary:

GPS: Lat: 27° 02′ 00″ S Long: 153° 28′ 00″ E

First Exhibited: 14^th February, 1857 (Automated 1992  , Destaffed.   )

Tower height: 23 m,  Focal Height: 120m above MSL

Original Lens: Chance Brothers catoptric apparatus (replaced in 1930 with Chance Brothers 3rd Order dioptric lens)

Intensity: 1,800,000 candela

Range: 27 nml

Characteristic: White flash every 7.5 seconds [Fl.W. 7.5s]

Indigenous History:

The Ngugi people are the Traditional Owners of Moreton Island, known to them as “Moorgumpin” meaning “place of sandhills.” The cape area held particular significance as a gathering place and vantage point for monitoring seasonal changes and marine migrations.

Archaeological evidence reveals extensive middens around the cape, containing remnants of dugong, turtle, fish, and shellfish consumption. These deposits, some dating back over 5,000 years, demonstrate the sophisticated hunting practices of the Ngugi people and their deep connection to the marine environment.

The cape played a vital role in Indigenous astronomy and navigation, with the prominent headland serving as a key reference point for traditional navigation routes and seasonal movements. The Ngugi people maintained a deep knowledge about weather patterns, marine animal migrations, and safe passage through the surrounding waters.

Today, the Ngugi people maintain strong cultural connections to the cape and work closely with management authorities to protect and interpret their cultural heritage within the lighthouse precinct.

Colonial History:

European involvement with Cape Moreton began when Lieutenant James Cook named it during his voyage along Australia’s east coast in 1770. Initially recorded as “Morton’s Point” in Cook’s journal, the name was later corrected to “Moreton” in published accounts. Matthew Flinders conducted more detailed surveys of the area in 1799 during his exploration in the sloop Norfolk, providing the first accurate charts of the cape and its surrounding waters.

The strategic significance of Cape Moreton became apparent during John Oxley’s exploration of Moreton Bay in 1823. His favourable reports led directly to the establishment of the Moreton Bay penal settlement in 1824, marking the beginning of sustained European presence in the region. The penal settlement, initially established at Redcliffe and later moved to the site of present-day Brisbane, relied heavily on maritime transport, making the cape a crucial navigation point.

In 1825, Brisbane was established as a penal settlement. In spite of the hazards, the preferred access to Moreton Bay and Brisbane was through the southern entrance, between Moreton Island and North Stradbroke Island, mainly due to shorter shipping route and better shipping conditions. The southern entrance was therefore marked in 1825 and a pilot station was established at Amity Point on North Stradbroke Island in 1827. Although the northern entrance was considered in the 1830s, it was only with the increased shipping activity due to the proclamation of Moreton Bay as a free settlement in 1842 that vessels began to use the northern entrance. Buoys marking the entrance were laid in 1846–1847, and in 1848 the Pilot Station was moved to Bulwer on Moreton Island. By then the northern entry was regarded as the main entry.

Early shipping activity was fraught with danger. The complex system of sandbars, shallow reefs, and strong currents around the cape claimed numerous vessels. The loss of the Sovereign in 1847, with 44 lives lost, highlighted the urgent need for improved maritime safety measures. This disaster, combined with increasing pressure from the growing maritime community, led to the establishment of a pilot station at the cape in 1848.

The pilot station was a significant development, staffed by experienced local mariners who had intimate knowledge of the bay’s challenging waters. Captain George Wyborn served as the first pilot, establishing a system of signals and protocols that would guide vessels safely through the northern entrance to Moreton Bay. The pilot station operated from a substantial wooden building on the cape, with accommodation for the pilots and their families, along with facilities for signal flags and rescue equipment.

In 1850 Brisbane residents petitioned the New South Wales Government to establish a lighthouse on Cape Moreton. The petition was supported by detailed records of shipping accidents and near-misses, along with projections of increasing maritime traffic. Several tragic shipwrecks in this period, including the loss of the immigrant ship Aurora in 1850, also added urgency to calls for a permanent lighthouse to encourage ships to use the broader and safer northern passage. Planning for the structure commenced in 1852, the site was selected and surveyed in 1853 and the lighthouse was designed in 1854 by Edmund Blacket the New South Wales Colonial Architect of the time. 

The New South Wales Government finally approved construction in 1855, allocating £15,000 for the project. The cost was considerable for the time, reflecting both the technical challenges of the construction and the importance placed on maritime safety. The lighthouse project represented one of the largest public works undertaken in Moreton Bay prior to Queensland’s separation from New South Wales in 1859.

The construction project brought significant activity to the cape. A temporary settlement housed the workers, while a jetty was built to facilitate the delivery of materials. The presence of the construction team, along with the existing pilot station staff, created the first substantial European community on Moreton Island. This community laid the foundation for what would become a permanent lighthouse settlement, marking the transition of Cape Moreton from a remote navigational hazard to a vital maritime safety installation.

The lighthouse was completed just before Queensland’s separation from New South Wales, making it one of the last major infrastructure projects undertaken by the New South Wales Government in what would become Queensland. This timing would later create some administrative complications, as the new Queensland Government had to assume responsibility for a facility it hadn’t commissioned.

The Lighthouse:

The selection of Edmund Blacket as architect reflected the project’s importance. Blacket, then Colonial Architect for New South Wales, was known for his attention to detail and ability to adapt British designs to colonial conditions. His choice of local materials and innovative construction techniques would prove crucial to the lighthouse’s longevity.

However, Blacket resigned on 10 June 1854, for the private market, and left the office on 25 August. The office remained vacant until 1 October 1854, when Blacket was succeeded by William Weaver. Drawings for the tower which were completed in September 1854 were signed by Alexander Beazeley, Foreman of Works in the Colonial Architect’s office. The tower was finally built during the office of Alexander Dawson who succeeded Weaver in 1856, and signed further drawings made in April 1856.

The tower was constructed by a contractor, Mark Farrell for the cost of £ 15,232, using prison labor and supervised by Beazeley. The project was supervised by foreman stonemason John McCrossan, who brought considerable experience from previous maritime construction projects. The initial construction contract was awarded to tender winners Mark and Connors, who assembled a skilled team of stonemasons, many of whom had worked on other major colonial building projects in the region.

Construction began in 1856 with the quarrying of sandstone from two different locations on the cape. The distinctive banded appearance of the lighthouse was not initially planned – it arose from the necessity of using stone from both quarries, which yielded different coloured sandstone. The brown sandstone came from a quarry near the base of the cape, while the whiter stone was sourced from an area further north. Rather than seeing this variation as a problem, McCrossan turned it into a feature, creating the alternating bands that would become the lighthouse’s signature characteristic.

The construction process was challenging due to the remote location and difficult terrain. A temporary jetty was built to facilitate the delivery of materials and equipment, while a flying fox system was used to transport the heavy sandstone blocks up the steep slopes to the construction site. The tower was built using traditional techniques, with each stone carefully cut and fitted to ensure maximum stability. The walls were constructed with a thickness of 1.2 meters at the base, tapering to 0.6 meters at the top, providing the strength needed to withstand the severe weather conditions common to the cape.

The tower incorporated several innovative features for its time, including a spiral staircase of 100 steps cast in Sydney and shipped in sections, was a significant engineering achievement for its time. Each step was individually secured to the sandstone walls using an innovative bracketing system that has proven remarkably durable. to the site in sections. The lantern room, which crowns the tower, is an octagonal structure constructed of brass and glass, with a domed copper roof topped by a distinctive ventilator. The original ventilation system, designed to prevent condensation on the optical equipment, incorporates a series of airways and vents that maintain a constant flow of air around the lens assembly. The gallery that encircles the lantern room features the original cast-iron railings, their sturdy construction having withstood over 160 years of extreme coastal weather.

When officially lit on 14^th February, 1857, it was equipped with a sophisticated Chance Brothers catoptric apparatus, making it one of the most powerful lights along the Australian coast at that time. The original lighting apparatus was shipped from England and required careful installation under the supervision of specialists from the Chance Brothers company.

In 1928, the tower was extended and the lighthouse reached its current height of 75 feet (23 m) to increase its range. In 1928–1930, the keepers’ cottages were replaced with timber framed fibro clad structures. In 1930, the lantern underwent major modification. The lantern house was replaced with 7 feet 1 inch (2.16 m) diameter Chance Brothers lantern room. 

It is the oldest lighthouse in Queensland, and the only one to be built by the New South Wales Government before the separation of Queensland, which took place in 1859. It is also the only lighthouse in Queensland to be built of stone.

In 1859, control of the lightstation passed to the Government of Queensland, but it continued to be managed by the New South Wales Marine Board until the formation of the Queensland Department of Ports and Harbours in 1862. 

The Buildings:

The Cape Moreton lighthouse complex represents one of the most complete surviving examples of a 19th-century lighthouse station in Australia. The precinct consists of multiple buildings, each purposefully designed and positioned to support the lighthouse’s operation while accommodating the needs of the keepers and their families.

The keeper’s quarters consist of three separate residences, reflecting the hierarchical nature of lighthouse staffing. The Head Keeper’s cottage, the largest of the three, is a substantial sandstone building featuring six rooms, including a formal parlor and separate kitchen. The two Assistant Keepers’ cottages, while smaller, were similarly well-constructed, each containing four rooms. All three residences were built in the colonial Georgian style, with characteristic symmetrical facades, central hallways, and double-hung sash windows. The buildings incorporate verandahs on three sides, designed to provide shelter from sun and rain while maximizing natural ventilation.

The signal station, positioned to command views of both the ocean approaches and Moreton Bay, is a two-story structure that also served as a weather observation post. Its upper level features large windows on all sides and was equipped with sophisticated signaling equipment, including flag lockers, telescope mounts, and a telegraph station added in the 1890s.

During the 1860s and 1870s some further structures were constructed in the station including a schoolhouse (opened in 1879), a stable, and other storage buildings. A telegraph line was constructed during in 1890 and a post office was operated by the light keepers between 1915 and the early 1920s.

In addition to the main light on Cape Moreton several supplementary lights and navigation aids were constructed on the northern and western sides of the island to assist passage through the myriad of channels and changing sandbanks in Moreton Bay. These included lights at Bulwer signal station (1890) which was also the access point for supplies, Moreton Bay Pile Light (1894), Cowan Cowan Point (1899), Comboyuro Point (1906) and Yellow Patch (1917)

Water supply was critical for the station’s operation, and an elaborate system of guttering and underground tanks was installed to harvest and store rainwater. The original tanks, constructed of brick and rendered with hydraulic cement, remain largely intact and provide fascinating insights into 19th-century civil engineering practices.

Technical Details:

The technical evolution of Cape Moreton Lighthouse reflects the broader development of lighthouse technology over more than 150 years of operation. The lighting apparatus and associated equipment have undergone several major upgrades while maintaining the lighthouse’s essential character and functionality.

The original 1857 installation consisted of a sophisticated Chance Brothers catoptric system featuring 21 parabolic reflectors arranged in three tiers of seven. Each reflector, manufactured from silver-plated copper, measured 53 centimeters in diameter and was individually adjustable for precise beam alignment. The light source for each reflector was a single-wick oil lamp, with the entire array rotating on a clockwork mechanism powered by weights that descended through a central shaft in the tower.

The 1930 upgrade introduced a major technological advance with the installation of a Chance Brothers 3rd Order dioptric lens. This precision-engineered optical system stands 1.8 meters tall and consists of 612 hand-ground glass prisms arranged in a beehive pattern. The lens floats on a mercury bath containing approximately 260 kilograms of mercury, allowing the 2.5-tonne assembly to rotate with minimal friction. This optical apparatus remains in service today, making Cape Moreton one of the few lighthouses still operating with its heritage lens system.

In 1937, the light was converted to 110 V DC electricity. The two distinctive red bands were painted in 1942. In 1967 the power source was replaced with 240 V AC power, being supplied by two diesel alternators, and a new lens, pedestal, bearing and optic drive may have been installed. The range of the 1967 light was 27 nautical miles (50 km; 31 mi). The light was modernised in July 1988, with the installation of a 120 V 1 Kw tungsten halogen lamp. In 1990, the handrails and stanchions of the balcony

Keepers of the Light:

The history of Cape Moreton’s lighthouse keepers spans over a century of dedicated service, often in challenging and isolated conditions. Each keeper brought unique contributions to the station’s operation and development.

Joshua Jeays served as the first keeper (1857-1873), establishing many of the operational procedures that would become standard practice. His detailed weather observations and methodical approach to maintenance set high standards for those who followed.

William Simpson’s tenure (1873-1890) saw significant improvements in the station’s facilities, including the development of more efficient water collection systems and the establishment of the first vegetable gardens. His wife Mary became known for her medical skills, providing care not only to the lighthouse community but also to passing sailors.

The Rookie family maintained a remarkable multi-generational connection with the lighthouse, with three generations serving as keepers between 1890 and 1937. Their combined service of nearly 50 years created an unprecedented continuity in the station’s operation and maintenance.

James Rookie Sr. (1890-1912) implemented numerous technical improvements, including modifications to the light mechanism that increased its reliability. His detailed maintenance records proved invaluable for future keepers and maintenance crews.

Thomas Rookie (1912-1927) guided the station through the challenging years of World War I, when the lighthouse took on additional coastal surveillance duties. His innovations in weather monitoring and signal communications enhanced the station’s effectiveness during this critical period.

Arthur Rookie (1927-1937) oversaw the major technical transition to electric power, skillfully managing the complex upgrade while maintaining the light’s operation. His technical expertise proved crucial during this significant modernization.

The final phase of manned operation saw several keepers guide the station through the post-war period until its automation in 1993. Their combined efforts ensured the successful transition to modern automated systems while preserving traditional lighthouse knowledge and skills.

Shipwrecks & Tragedies:

The waters around Cape Moreton have witnessed numerous maritime disasters, with the cape’s position at the northern entrance to Moreton Bay making it a crucial but sometimes treacherous navigational point. The combination of shifting sandbanks, strong currents, and severe weather conditions has claimed vessels ranging from small fishing boats to large merchant ships.

One of the earliest documented tragedies occurred before the lighthouse’s construction. The loss of the Sovereign in 1847, with 44 lives lost, highlighted the urgent need for a navigation light at the cape. The paddle steamer, bound for Sydney from Brisbane, struck a sandbank near the cape during rough weather. This disaster directly influenced the decision to establish both a pilot station and later the lighthouse.

The Salamander incident of 1864 demonstrated the lighthouse’s vital role in maritime safety. The schooner, caught in a fierce storm, was guided to safer waters by keeper Joshua Jeays’ quick thinking in adjusting the light’s intensity to provide better visibility through the driving rain. Through his actions, all aboard were saved, though the vessel later grounded on a sandbank with no loss of life.

The 1890s brought one of the cape’s most infamous maritime disasters with the loss of the SS Cheviot. During a severe gale in December 1887, the steamer attempted to navigate through the North Passage but was overwhelmed by massive waves. Despite the lighthouse beam’s guidance, the vessel struck rocks near the cape. The heroic efforts of keeper William Simpson and his team, who braved treacherous conditions to fire rescue rockets, helped save 25 lives, though tragically 13 others were lost.

The advent of World War II brought new dangers to these waters. In May 1943, the hospital ship Centaur was torpedoed by a Japanese submarine approximately 27 nautical miles east of the lighthouse. Of the 332 people aboard, only 64 survived. The lighthouse played a crucial role in coordinating rescue efforts, with keeper Arthur Rookie maintaining an anxious vigil and guiding rescue vessels to the survivors.

The post-war period saw changing patterns in maritime incidents, yet the waters around Cape Moreton continued to claim vessels. The fishing trawler Fisherman was lost in 1962 during a sudden squall, while the yacht Southern Cross foundered in 1976 after becoming disoriented in heavy fog. In each case, the lighthouse staff coordinated with rescue services, their local knowledge proving invaluable in search operations.

One of the most dramatic incidents occurred in 1985 when the bulk carrier Merita ran aground on Mirapool Beach during a cyclone. The lighthouse’s powerful beam helped guide rescue helicopters to the stricken vessel, enabling the successful evacuation of all crew members despite extremely hazardous conditions.

Myths & Mysteries:

Cape Moreton, with its dramatic landscape and long maritime history, has accumulated a rich tapestry of unexplained phenomena and enduring legends. These stories range from ancient Indigenous spiritual beliefs to modern mysteries that continue to intrigue visitors and researchers.

The Ngugi people speak of the cape as a place where the physical and spiritual worlds intersect, particularly during the annual whale migration. Their traditions tell of ancient spirits that manifest as unusual light phenomena, often seen dancing across the waters during significant astronomical alignments. Modern observers have reported similar unexplained lights, particularly during the whale migration season, leading to fascinating discussions about the intersection of Indigenous knowledge and contemporary experiences.

The lighthouse itself has generated numerous unexplained occurrences, many centered around the tragic events it has witnessed. Multiple keepers have documented mysterious phenomena, particularly during storms that mirror historical shipwrecks. The most persistent reports involve the inexplicable sound of steam whistles during rough weather, often coinciding with the anniversary of the Sovereign disaster.

The keeper’s cottages have their own collection of mysteries. Former residents consistently report unusual experiences in the northern cottage, particularly in the room where keeper William Simpson spent his last days. Visitors and staff have described sudden temperature drops, unexplained footsteps, and the distinct smell of kerosene where no fuel is present.

A peculiar phenomenon known as the “Pilot’s Light” has been documented since the 1870s. This manifestation appears as a small, bluish-white light that moves along the old pilot station track, seemingly guiding lost visitors to safety during foggy conditions. Multiple witnesses have reported similar experiences across different generations, with the phenomenon defying conventional explanation.

The World War II period added its own layer of mystery to the cape’s history. Keeper Arthur Rookie’s wartime logs contain carefully worded references to unexplained phenomena, including mysterious lights at sea and unexplained radio signals. Some of these incidents coincided with known Japanese submarine activity, but others remain unexplained even after the declassification of military records.

Perhaps the most scientifically intriguing aspects involve the lighthouse’s electrical systems. Since its electrification in 1937, technicians have documented numerous instances of unexplained equipment behavior. Modern monitoring systems occasionally record power fluctuations that defy conventional explanation, particularly during electrical storms.

The lighthouse’s unique sandstone construction has generated its own mysteries. During renovation work in the 1980s, workers discovered a previously unknown chamber within the tower walls, containing artifacts from the pilot station era. More intriguingly, some of these items predated European settlement, raising questions about the site’s early history.

Recent years have seen the emergence of unusual photographic phenomena. Visitors frequently report camera malfunctions at specific locations around the site, while successful photographs often show unexplained light anomalies. Professional photographers have captured images of what appears to be period-dressed figures within the tower, visible through windows but vanishing upon investigation.

The Ngugi people offer a profound perspective on these mysteries, suggesting that many phenomena are natural manifestations of the cape’s role as a boundary place between different realms of existence. This traditional understanding provides a framework for interpreting the unexplained events that continue to occur at Cape Moreton.

Current Status:

Today, Cape Moreton Lighthouse continues its essential role in maritime safety while serving as a heritage landmark of national significance. The lighthouse was automated in 1993 and is now operated by the Australian Maritime Safety Authority (AMSA). The site is managed by the Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service as part of Moreton Island National Park.

The lighthouse and its precinct are listed on the Queensland Heritage Register and the Commonwealth Heritage List. Regular maintenance ensures the preservation of both the functional aspects of the lighthouse and its historical features. The site offers guided tours, allowing visitors to explore the tower and learn about its rich maritime heritage.

Recent years have seen increased recognition of the site’s Indigenous cultural significance, with ongoing consultation with Ngugi representatives regarding cultural heritage management and interpretation. The lighthouse precinct serves as an important educational resource, highlighting both maritime history and Indigenous cultural values.

Modern navigation technology complements rather than replaces the lighthouse’s traditional role, with its powerful beam continuing to guide vessels through these historically challenging waters. The successful integration of heritage preservation with modern maritime safety requirements makes Cape Moreton Lighthouse a model for sustainable management of historic navigation infrastructure.

A Personal Note:

After travelling to Tangalooma Resort on high speed ferry I was disappointed to learn that the advertised 4X4 excursion to Cape Moreton Lighthouse had been cancelled for the day due to the lack of the of passengers (the fact they needed a minimum of 6 was hidden in the fine print)! Fortunately for me there was a spare seat of the helicopter fight scheduled for 2.00pm which would enable me to not only see the lighthouse but get a panoramic view of the island and surrounding waterways while still getting me back to the resort in time to catch the 4.00 pm ferry back to Brisbane. As it turned out this was a great option as not only did I get to see the lighthouse but I also got to see pods of dolphins, squadrons of manta rays, a herd of dugong, and armada of shipwrecks and the occasional shark (and a lesson in collective nouns to boot)!